How To Wash Raw Japanese Denim

Introduction

Raw Japanese denim isn’t just a fabric — it’s a craft. Woven on vintage shuttle looms and dyed with natural indigo, these jeans are prized for their rich color, durable weave, and ability to develop a one-of-a-kind fade pattern over time. But owning a pair comes with a commitment: knowing how and when to wash them properly.

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What Makes Japanese Denim Unique

Japanese mills like Kaihara, Kuroki, and Collect have perfected the slow weaving process that gives denim its dense texture and character. Unlike pre-washed or “sanforized” denim, raw denim is untreated, meaning it still carries the starch, dye, and stiffness straight from the loom.
This untreated quality is what allows wearers to imprint their own story into the jeans — every crease and fade a record of daily life.

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When to Wash Raw Denim

One of the most debated topics in denim culture is how long to wait before the first wash.

• Traditionalists suggest waiting 6 months or longer, allowing the denim to mold to your body and create high-contrast fades.
• Modern care advocates, however, emphasize hygiene and fabric health — recommending a wash every 2–3 months, especially in humid climates.

Ultimately, the right timing depends on your lifestyle and how often you wear your jeans.

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Preparation Before Washing

Before you dive in, here’s how to prepare your denim:

1. Turn them inside out – this helps preserve the indigo on the outer surface.
2. Button or zip up – prevents the fabric from twisting or tearing.
3. Soak, don’t scrub – harsh friction can cause uneven fades.
4. Use cold water – it minimizes shrinkage and dye loss.

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Methods of Washing

1. The Bathtub Soak

The most common method among denim enthusiasts:

1. Fill a tub with cold or lukewarm water.
2. Add a small amount of mild detergent (or none at all for the first wash).
3. Submerge the jeans fully, inside out.
4. Let soak for 30–45 minutes, gently agitating occasionally.
5. Drain and rinse thoroughly.
6. Hang dry in the shade — avoid direct sunlight to prevent streaking.

2. The Ocean Wash (for the adventurous)

An old-school ritual in denim lore: take your jeans for a swim in the sea, then rinse with fresh water. The salt and sand create unique texture and fades — though this method can be harsh and isn’t for everyone.

3. Machine Wash (the practical option)

If you prefer convenience:

• Use a front-loading machine (no agitator).
• Select a delicate or hand-wash cycle with cold water.
• Use a non-bio, gentle detergent.
• Air dry — never tumble dry.

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Aftercare and Drying

Hang your jeans by the waistband or lay them flat to dry. Avoid twisting or wringing them out. Over time, as your jeans fade and soften, they’ll develop a patina that’s unique to you.